S-Blazer SAS build "the family truckster"

[b4wbuggy]

it's taken me a long time just to get to this point of the project with family, work, financial, and logistical concerns all taking a front seat to my hobbies.

i purchased the truck in feb 2007 with a blown motor from a college kid that didn't have the resources to get it back on the road.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/s-blazerpurchase.jpg

this is where the truck sat, on my father-in-laws farm, for over a year while i built my garage.

it took me basically the following year to put another motor in, and get it inspected and tagged. i wanted to get it on the road before i tore it all apart to baseline it and see if there were any other issues. not to mention trying to get a lifted and modified truck through inspection. :brow:

in the mean time i've been collecting parts here and there, and deciding on a build strategy: a truck for almost everyday use, light to moderate wheelin, and can fit the whole family in with the wife being able to drive it.

1. Solid Axle Swap using wagoneer dana 44's because the stock IFS is expensive to modify/lift and is still worthless afterwards.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0113.jpg

2. 33/10.50 mt's to keep it tame and tucked in the fenders since flares for this truck are crazy expensive.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0112.jpg

3. ARB's front and rear to maintain street manners, specially in slippery conditions, but when it's time to get serious:D
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0002.jpg

i'll also be doing high steer/crossover steering just because it should make things easier to design. (still need the left side knuckle, and a right side arm with holes for the drag link and tie rod.....damn impulse buys :doh:)
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0114.jpg

[b4wbuggy]

here's how it looked at 11am
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0001.jpg

here's how it looked at 11pm
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0017.jpg

here's the pile of IFS scrap metal :flipoff2:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0010.jpg

this is the jig i made to simulate where the spring mounts need to be oriented on the frame
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0019.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0021.jpg

[b4wbuggy]

cleaned up and painted some stuff today. it's not much, but it all helps.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0117.jpg

cut some PVC pucks for a budget 1 1/4" body lift.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0115.jpg

how you like my home made housing spreader :cool:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0005.jpg

[b4wbuggy]

ok, i'm punking out. :(
i was going to fab my own crossmember, shackles, and spring mounts, but in the intrest of saving time i'm going to get the stuff from sky manufacturing and concentrate on the actual build itself.

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com

crossmember kit, of which i am only getting the crossmember

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/crossmember.jpg

i'll be using these shackles in front of the spring

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/shackle.jpg

and these hangers on the back of the spring

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/springmount.jpg

now that i've finally started the project,
i really want to get it on the road! :thumbsup:

[Mike]

You can order a custom width hanger from Datin Fab and it won't have that gay lettering cutout.

[poopypants]

i see you got a real lawn mower :flipoff2:

[Numidian]

You should have skipped the ARB'd D44's and just put 1-tons in it :flipoff2:

[b4wbuggy]

You can order a custom width hanger from Datin Fab and it won't have that gay lettering cutout.

he won't makem w/o so it's either going in backwards or i'll tack a plate over it

You should have skipped the ARB'd D44's and just put 1-tons in it :flipoff2:

already got one, thanks:thumbsup:

note the gay bald guy with the "load" in his "pants" under the front end, apparently he's got a thing for lawn mowers:cheers:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/Paragon%20nov03/PB300001.jpg

[lowdown]

The jig is good idea, I might borrow that one from you for the next Toyota SAS.
It sounds like it's too late but for future referene, Ed will make a hanger to any width for a very decent price. I got one from him a while back @ 32.5" OC for my Dodge D60. Also, why not run the shackles in the rear of the springs (shackle reversal)?

[b4wscrambler]

I talked him out of the shackle reversal. Less chance of death wobble, climbs better and less axle wrap.

The only advantage to the shackle in the rear is hauling ass offroad it rides a little better and you do not have the shackle hanging out in the front.

That just my opinion though.:D

[b4wbuggy]

Also, why not run the shackles in the rear of the springs (shackle reversal)?

it's basically to correct pinion angle and caster w/o having to cut and reweld the knuckles, use large shims, or a stupid tall crossmember. as long as there weren't any major disadvantages to a front shackle it makes the most sense. remeber this is not a hardcore rig.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/shackleCOMPARISON.jpg

[lax22]

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v265/149/38/141400037/n141400037_30339841_7721.jpg

I have toyed with the idea of having another done. Its fun to drive something unique.

[b4wbuggy]

very cool, and tall! i really like the fenders.

any pic's of the front end?

[b4wbuggy]

1. getting a vasectomy early fri morning: $50 copay and a set of sore nutz.:o
2. coming home with sore nutz and finding a box of truck parts on the front steps at the start of a three day weekend: priceless:doh:

i did manage to make some garage time mon & tue while still home from work. slow and sore, but steady.

got the frnt spring, rear mounts almost done.
passenger
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0138.jpg
drivers
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0139.jpg

this is how everything sets with full truck weight on a spring. if i decide i don't like the shackle angle i will redrill the shackle bolt hole in the front cossmember.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0137.jpg
now i have to finish welding in the front crossmember and then get some u-bolts to mock-up the axle to check steering linkage routing and caster angle.

[b4wbuggy]

does anyone know what is the correct size tapered ream for ball joints? i think its 7.15* or 1 1/2" per/ft via internet research. MSC and Grainger do not list them that way though. they are either a # size or just listed by actual dimensions. if i can find out, there is a very good chance that the machine shop at work will have one that i could borrow. but i need to know what to tell them.
:dan1:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0136.jpg

[poopypants]

your talking about for the steering linkage? i think i have that from when i had waggy axles...ill have to dig around....

[b4wheeler]

Wow you are brave, in and out in one day?? Thinking about it myself....But not right now....
Remember they arent blank until the doc says they are......

[b4wscrambler]

The test deposit is the most embarrassing part. Why is it always the young intern when you drop it off?:lol:

[b4wbuggy]

Wow you are brave, in and out in one day?? Thinking about it myself....But not right now....
Remember they arent blank until the doc says they are......

you should have enough "frequent flyer miles" for the docs to do it for free john!;)

The test deposit is the most embarrassing part. Why is it always the young intern when you drop it off?:lol:

Taste test?

[lowdown]

you should have enough "frequent flyer miles" for the docs to do it for free john!;)

Taste test?

That shot is called "shootin' blanks."

[b4wbuggy]

got a good bit done this weekend

say good bye sky:flipoff2:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0023.jpg

covered up with winch plate. eventually this will be the foundation for a tube bumper that will also wrap around the winch
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0030.jpg

back of crossmember
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0027.jpg

dad's helper
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0025.jpg

now all i need to do is set up the rears and start putting everything together!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

[b4wheeler]

If I had know, I could have stopped by on my way home from RC. I was in the area about 11:00.....
But you can still come down and help me with mine this winter..... :D :happybear:

[CJTHING]

This is a great write up. I don't have the patience to stop and take pics much less tell people about what I just did.

[b4wbuggy]

it's kind of the lesser of two evils. with family responsabilities i can't work on the truck every day and all day like i used to. so when i'm stuck watching the kinds (i mean lucky:doh:) i do a little surfing. that is until my daughter screams loud enough for her bottle that i cant think that i cant think duaghter screaminggg......

got to go!:lol:

[lowdown]

I hear you on that..seems like the only time I have to work on stuff is from around 9pm until late..

[b4wbuggy]

been so busy with the wife going back to work (teacher) that any spare time i had this weekend i spent in the garage instead of surfing:)

got the ARB's and gears set up. i know the pattern isn't ideal, but they're used gear and the checking distance and backlash are dead nuts. so i'm going with it.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0032.jpg

removed the obnoxious stock crossmember from under the gearbox now that the new one is finished
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0036.jpg

installed the rear add-a-leafs and set up the center pins for spring under, got all excited and swung the rear under to bolt it up and.... realized that i never paid any attention to the spring pad width in the rear because i was so involved with the front!:doh:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0039.jpg

the rear was a bust, so i moved to the front, got all excited again and.... found out that i didn't account for the extra width of the diff housing for the one spring bolt!:dan1:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0041.jpg

details, details. oh well, still moving along faster then i would have thought. also got the ABS module removed and the rear brake line replumbed to the prop. valve.

[lowdown]

Can you drill through or notch the webbing to fit the u bolt?

[b4wbuggy]

no need, i just stopped by perryhall power on the way home from work and had another one bent.:thumbsup:

[b4wbuggy]

not much to show for the last week. got the axles under the truck and bolted up and the weight on the springs. the front looks great, sitting right where i think it should. but the back is sitting 3" lower than the front. i spent last weekend swapping leaves around and trying to decide on a solution. i could lower the shackle mount under the frame, but it would add alot of stress to the area. i could just make a set of 8" drop shackles or use 3" lift blocks, but kane would laugh at me:flipoff2: so i think i want to just get new rear springs, problem is i cannot find any info on leaf spring dimensions from the various manuf.:mikey:. (and of course nobody list anything for the back of an s-blazer specifically:rolleyes:)

anybody have anything to suggest?

[lowdown]

Contact the manufacturers or hit the web trying to get the dimensions.
What dimensions are you shooting for? I'd imagine an S10 is similar in weight to an early ('84-'88) 4Runner so something for that application may work.

[b4wbuggy]

i think they are diffrent width and i know they use metric bolts. i have been surfin the web and i can't believe its this hard to come up with specs. you would figure with everybody building buggys and custom junk they would be happy to make it available so people could by their crap:dan1:

[frosty]

Anything in here help at all?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775943

This link from that thread should give you a ton of information granted its not spring manufacturer specific. http://www.generalspringkc.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=1&pg=1

[MDMike]

I don't know if this will help, but alot of XJ guys run S-10 packs in the back to get between 3"-4" of lift. Probably a step in the wrong direction, though.

[b4wbuggy]

thanks for the input guys. the pirate post i had not found on my own yet. too bad none of the info lists free arch. i'm trying to find springs that are OEM or aftermarket not "custom" and high dollar. hard to do w/o the proper info

[b4wbuggy]

thanks for the input guys. the pirate post i had not found on my own yet. too bad none of the info lists free arch. i'm trying to find springs that are OEM or aftermarket not "custom" and high dollar. hard to do w/o the proper info

I don't know if this will help, but alot of XJ guys run S-10 packs in the back to get between 3"-4" of lift. Probably a step in the wrong direction, though.

yeah, i need ~3" more then the stock pack

i'm still going to research the springs, but for now i decided to go with redneck lift blocks (2 1/2" square tube, welded to a 1/2" plate, welded to the spring perch) to get the ball moving. once i get the truck back on the road for a test drive i can re-evaluate. bite me kane.

[frosty]

Try these spreadsheets. I didnt fully look through them so I dont know what all is there. http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=558613&highlight=leaf+springs

I'll google shit till the cows come home but I stopped doing math and promptly forgot it all after Rings and Numbers. In fact I have worked very hard to fry those brain cells to forget it all. :lol: There is a formula in this thread that you might be able to use in order to find the free arch based on the numbers supplied in my first Pirate link. http://www.coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228559

I think they got one of the equations out of the spreadsheets so you might be able to just plug in your known numbers. Also all the springs in http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/mrnimages/leaf_springs.png appear to be OEM springs to me.

[poopypants]

dumb quesion but if you can swap s-10 springs into an XJ...couldnt you just get a 4-6" lift spring for an XJ?

[b4wbuggy]

where were you last night when i needed you, oh master of the obvious! the very same thought occured to me, out of nowhere, in the middle of my morning commute at 5am :doh:

however after fabing up my budget redneck lift blocks:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0049.jpg

......i put the tires on that i just got mounted today and finally got a good look at the end product, and i think the truck itself is sitting too high:mikey:
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0046.jpg

too much wheel well?
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0048.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0047.jpg

i really don't want to go any higher then i have to. so i think my next experiment will be to keep the oem rear springs (w/add-a-leaf, but w/o block) and get a set of stock waggy front springs. see where it sits. then fine tune it with the body lift.

anybody know where i can find a set of stock (or 44044) waggy springs?

[poopypants]

the stock waggy springs will basically sit flat if not have a negative arch...the 44044 i believe are like a 4" lift spring so you might be in the same boat....why the waggys? does the center pin need to be off center 2"? if not i would say try some stock yj springs...you can always add and delete leaves...swing by and measure mine if you want (springs that is)

[b4wbuggy]

the 44044's are 2 1/2" lift and yes i need the center pin offset for steering linkage purposes. i figured if i try the stock springs (flat arch) it would be a good place to bench mark the front suspension (can't go any lower); and someone should have an old set laying around.. i can decide how much to move it from there and it will be easier to make the rear match because i'll be removing lift blocks/add-a-leafs instead of buying rear springs.
the other thing that i have not mentioned yet is that truck was too high and i had not installed the 1 1/4" body lift yet, which i would really like to use because it will make other access issues go away.

[b4wscrambler]

So many thing to make fun of.:stir:

Take a leaf or 2 out of your front pack. French the fixed mount into the frame and run shorter shackles?

[Mike]

Get rid of the drop spring hanger in the front.

[b4wbuggy]

So many thing to make fun of.:stir:
--------------------------------------------:alan:-----------------------------------------------------


Take a leaf or 2 out of your front pack. French the fixed mount into the frame and run shorter shackles?
2 leafs already out. not much differance. thought about frenching.

Get rid of the drop spring hanger in the front.
very last resort. its intragal to the frame at this piont.

got a set of stock wagoneer springs sun. will start there and see how she lays.

[Mike]

you could always go spring under

[poopypants]

get bigger tires...

[Ripster]

get bigger tires...
:doh: :lol:

[b4wbuggy]

get bigger tires...

i'm very secure with the size of my penis and don't feel the need to compensate.:popcorn:

got the stock springs on last night:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0071.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0072.jpg

as compared to:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0046.jpg
(it's subtle in the pic's, but more dramatic in person)

i think i'm happy with the results. i'm giving up on the body lift for now, it's just not worth the extra work to lower the suspension to get it on and keep the same look just to get easier accces to stuff. but hey, no more rear lift blocks!:dan2:

while everything was together i mocked up the front drive shaft and it was almost perfect for a cv set up. just need to make a new trans crossmember due to interferance.

[poopypants]

how much time do you have into grooving the rear tires?

[b4wbuggy]

find two brand new 33x10.50 m/t's for me, and i'll by them:flipoff2:












smartass

[3rd-go-around]

I like it, looks good.

[lowdown]

much better. is it too late move the front shackle hangers back for a better angle?

[b4wscrambler]

The waggy springs are pretty soft. I would bet by the time he gets the winch and some ugly @ss bumper on there the shackle angle will be better.

[b4wbuggy]

my thoughts exactly. especially the ugly ass bumper part:flipoff2:

[lax22]

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v265/149/38/141400037/n141400037_30339846_556.jpg

This is the best one I have of the front end for now. I can get some specific ones if you need them.

[b4wbuggy]

hey lax, what pitman arm did you go with? i'm thinking of using the stock arm and a female end from poly performance.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/images/P/70_1234155920-200.jpg


nothing exciting this weekend. just working on the used front wagoneer springs i got last weekend. cleaning up, painting, and rebushing (thanks to AOI for having the bushings in stock)

[lax22]

I went with a stock CJ pitman arm reamed out to fit the tie rod end. I want to swap out for a stock wagoneer pitman arm in the future. Are you using the stock box? I have one that was reversed by PSC and tapped for hydro assist since i moved my axle foward. If you are in a stock location i dont see whey that wouldnt work. By the way I like the stance.

[b4wbuggy]

using the stock box with the axle just an inch or so forward. the problem was that i needed to swap out the stock arm for one w/ the tapered hole w/o any drop because of the small amount of lift or it would hit the front dif. stopped at perryhall power today to drop of my rear shaft and got everything i needed. pitman, tube nuts, dom...

[b4wbuggy]

this week was a good week! i finally got to break out the bender for the first time in a couple of years!

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0008-1.jpg

had to bend up a new trans crossmember

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0002-1.jpg

no more clearance issue

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/IMG_0005-1.jpg

[frosty]

Damn you and your bender. :flipoff2:

[b4wheeler]

Cool green roller thingy :D

[b4wbuggy]

big lawn + Cool green roller thingy = more garage time - big pile of cash

[b4wheeler]

Not talkin' 'bout the JD.....

[b4wbuggy]

only you would have noticed the pipe stand:doh:

[lax22]

great looking crossmember. :thumbsup:

[b4wbuggy]

sorry it's been awhile. for the most part it wasn't anything interesting, just doing all the little crap like getting drive shafts made ($),running brake lines, getting the steering links fabbed, etc...

drag link bent up

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/draglink.jpg

steering finished

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/dlinstside.jpg

pitman arm is from a YJ (stock). it has just a little drop and i didn't even have to grind out the indexing splines.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/dlinstfrt.jpg

the factory frame shock mount worked out great with some old k-5 shocks i had laying around. i cut the lower shock brackets of the original a-arms and they worked better then i could have hoped. also used the factory brake line bracket and location for a really clean looking install.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/shock.jpg

which all lead to the moment of truth:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/liberated.jpg

the first test drive was mainly to make sure the brakes worked after ripping out the ABS and replumbing the system, and to check for rear drive line vibration. it ran smooth and stopped on a dime (with no ABS light!) but was all over the road. i figured it was just my "tape measure front end alignment". when i got back to the garage and started to investigate, i noticed that the steering was pushing/pulling the axle all over the place. time for a track bar!

[b4wbuggy]

track bar pass side rear

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/trkbrxlrr.jpg

track bar pass side front

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/trkbrxlfrt.jpg

track bar frame mount

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/trkbrframe.jpg

holy sh!t. what a differance! now she's straight as an arrow and rock solid:thumbsup:

i went with TRE's because i already had most of the parts, and a brand new tapered ream for the mounts. so far it's worked out great.
AND I'M BACK ON THE ROAD AGAIN!!!:flipoff2::cheers::brow::D

still plenty of little stuff to do. ARB lines, fender trimming, rerouting the driver side exhaust for the front drive shaft......

[ehall]

nice work

[b4wscrambler]

Looking gooooood.:cool:

[b4wbuggy]

thanks guys

[poopypants]

you done any flexulation tests on it yet?

[b4wbuggy]

just with a fork lift at work. everything clears nicely on the steering and suspension. still need to do some fender trimming before it hits anything "trail-ish", but i want to wait till i get around to doing the tube bumpers for that. if i only had some tube.........

been driving it to work all week (35 miles each way) and everything is good/ acceptable. still need and alignment, steering is tight but its still touchy/jerky, hopefully the caster is close? only getting ~16mpg :rolleyes:

got the ARB compressor mounted under the hood where the ABS unit was. re-used the rubber isolation bushings from the ABS to help keep the noise down. i think it came out pretty well. pics to follow.

[b4wheeler]

Dude.. Those are some mad fab skills you have obtained.:thumbsup:.... Good lookin' stuff... Now do mine..... :happybear:

[b4wbuggy]

Huh?............ sorry, thought i heard something.
















































































i have a hard enough time staying "happily" married while working in my own sh!t.:confused:

[lowdown]

Ain't that the freaking truth!!!! Amen, brother!

[b4wbuggy]

nothing very technical i know, but i spent a good bit of time getting the mounting plate fabbed and bent up the way i wanted it with the isolation bushings.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/compmount.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/compbush.jpg

[b4wbuggy]

it's been awhile and i've put a few miles on the truck. only had one issue with a bad distributor pick-up coil right before the big snow. not bad for a junkyard motor and a truck that sat for at least three years. still needs a front end alignment to work out the last of the steering (caster*) but i just can't seem to get time to get it to the shop!

one small thing that made a big difference in drivability. due to the gear and tire modifications the speedo was off of course. but it also affected the trans shift points and torque conv clutch lock-up. i found a site that shows how to modify the stock vehicle speed sensor buffer.
http://www.tbichips.com/drac/
i didn't use DIP switches like in the article, i just re-soldered the jumpers in the correct locations. after re-installing the truck definetley drives smoother and has more power due to higher shift points.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s51/stevenpag/s-blazer%20build/vssb2.jpg

had it out for the first real shakedown, and the only issue was with the loose nut behind the steering wheel. i always have had bad luck with pass. doors.:dan1:

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb304/maeko31/P1010070-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb304/maeko31/P1010092-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb304/maeko31/P1010094-1.jpg